I’ve just had to travel across to Germany for work. I found
enormous pleasure being in a country that can in no way be described as foreign
– how can it be foreign when there are Subway outlets and Sky Sports Channel
stings all exactly the same as they are in the UK? – but is different enough
for me to feel “other”. I suppose that
the anonymity that you feel as an alien is very different to that which you
feel in your hometown.
Heidelberg |
Emmendingen |
To get between the three places I had meetings I used the
train. Driving in Germany is brilliant
(the excitement of being able to drive on a road without a speed limit
mitigated by the sensible way in which the majority of drivers approach this
fact – at least in the journeys I took), but my ability to park varies between
being able to pull in at the side of the road and I’m not getting this vehicle in that space and I’ll cause less damage and stress simply by leaving
it in the road. So, I drive to find an
empty street where pulling in and parking is manageable and then get a taxi
back to my actual destination.
Anyway. The trains.
Firstly, buying a ticket is always fun. The automated machines are straightforward to
use but do ask questions and I’m always conscious of making a mistake and
buying a ticket to Patagonia or for the wrong type of train. Where do you want to go? How many people are
travelling? Which service are you thinking of getting on? Etc. etc. etc. as the
King of Siam once said. Being on the
wrong service came to the fore on my first foray onto the trains this
time. I bought a ticket for the 10:14
from Frankfurt to Heidelberg and was told it would be valid for all services
except the ICE service (The Intercity Express trains, all ice-cool and sleek). The 10:14 was promptly cancelled, as was the next
service. The subsequent available
service was an ICE train. What to
do? Well, a quick enquiry with the
help-desk, an official stamp and squiggled signature rendered my ticket valid
and off I went. Efficient, no fuss: simply helpful.
Emmendingen has a snail fixation |
Frankfurt Subway |
After a misadventure on a school trip in France many moons
ago, I’m always quite happy to check, double and triple check the route the
train is taking without any sense of embarrassment. So, having read the timetable, the platform
display, asked the guard and then checked the on-board display again, I was
relatively confident I was on the right train.
It sped south and soon the display in the carriage said we were going at
200kph. Nice.
No other cancellations occurred and for the next three days
I trained down from Heidelberg to Emmendingen and then back up to
Frankfurt. At every station stop and as
I boarded every train I checked and double checked, becoming confident enough
to only next directly ask the guard if I was on the right train for the journey
back to the airport to fly home. I must
have looked more confident because as I stood slouched and waiting at a station
stop on the way to Frankfurt, a man leant in and asked me whether this was the
Stuttgart train. No, I was able to tell
him – after first letting him know that my German was Schlecht. “Are you
American?” He asked.
“UK,” I said.
“Ah, I used to live in London, many years ago,” he said.
“Me too,” I replied.
“Where in London?” He asked.
“Near Wimbledon.”
“Ah, you know Southfields,” He said, “I was there recently.
It’s built up tremendously.”
We gave each other a wave as the train pulled out of the
station.
A curious sort of comfortable anonymity.
River Neckar - Heidelberg |
Frankfurt old and new |
One thing I did notice immediately upon my return to the UK
was the difference in tone of the train stations and on the trains. In Germany, the only announcements were for
train arrivals and departures. In the UK
I was asked to be on the look out for suspect packages, to report anything
suspicious and not to leave my bags alone or they could be destroyed. Speaks volumes…repeatedly.
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