I’m in a fortunate position.
I walk around town and see postcard pictures everywhere. Spring has kicked in, and flowers in bloom
married with fresh green leaves and blossom transform the nature of the
place. Stroud is a curious town, and a
common cross section of England, or so it feels to me. Common in that affluence and poverty sit side
by side in stark contrast; it is strikingly similar to New Zealand.
In the decade or so I lived in New Zealand, I spent the
majority of my time in a town of a similar size and population to Stroud. Oamaru, in fact, boasts a centre arguably as
attractive as this Cotswold Town. Both,
too, are home to a clear demonstration of the disparity in wealth and lifestyle
of their country’s population. They
could run side by side, matching boutique shop with boutique shop, coffee house
with coffee house, bar with bar. Each
has a thriving and abstract arts community.
The major difference between the two is outlook: Oamaru has the sea,
Stroud has the hills.
The only other town I lived in in New Zealand was
Picton. It serves as gateway to the
south island, for those arriving by ferry, and is surrounded by the natural
beauty of the Marlborough Sounds. Oamaru,
Picton and Stroud all wear the fissure between those that have and those that
don’t on their sleeves.
Where I am now, I have the distinctive aroma of decay that
comes from the malaise of a place that feels like its treading water. I mean the country now, not simply
Stroud. Actually, that’s a misstatement,
the country is thrashing itself around and bellowing at itself as it descends
into madness trying to inch its way through the predicament it has got itself
in. The country laughs then snarls at
itself as the million stabbings bleed it slowly into torpor. Life in the communities of the country,
though, feels different.
As I have said before, there is much that has changed since
I have been away but only fractionally.
I still feel uncomfortable being here and hear the yelled reproach “why
don’t you fuck back off to where you’ve come from, then!?” ringing in my ears
as I write this. Here is where I come
from though and here was the place I very determinedly left. Circumstance has brought me back and seeing
these fractional changes simply serves to make stronger the stench of rot.
There’s the irony, of course. Rot fertilises. Rot should promote growth. Rot should bed in the shoots of progress and
give its roots nourishment and a sure foundation from which to grow. That is nature’s way. It’s there.
I see the small businesses and enterprises of the people of the town
showing that growth and purpose and drive.
But the smell of shit still clings to the air. The empty shops, the state of floor we have
to walk or drive on, the inordinate prices for ordinary things, the demands on
your time to provide your own slim-line service and then the gnashing teeth of
officialdom, hidden behind the gum-shield of the letterhead, when the system
goes wrong and they actually have to speak with you. And the poverty.
New Zealand was as bad; although life did appear to function
a lot better there - the “she’ll be right” attitude that built a nation. Again, though, much like here, the underlying
prejudice against the have nots and those of an ethnicity not white was
startling – Taika Waititi wasn’t buggering around.
What do I know? I’m
just a sick bloke trying (“Very trying!” I hear you all yell) and still
floundering around. I know that coffee
in Stroud still isn’t great – apart from Black Books Café, obv – and that the
library is brilliant: I miss the sea and the stingrays. I know that both the UK and NZ are tolerably
decent places that don’t quite know how to get their act or heart in
order. I know that were I German or
Greek I would be able to write exactly the same piece about there too. I would however like the postcard pictures to
smell of oregano or wurst, though, not just worse.
Hari OM
ReplyDeleteThat's one of the best vid clips I've watched in ages! You're right about the rot being general/global... but there are some places it seems easier to bear. I find the bright spring days only rub that in somehow... YAM xx